TWSpecial报告
A梅ererican纺织工人正忙于使世界各地的客户想要购买，并重写该行业灭亡的流行叙事。
Mount Vernon Mills Vice President and Secretary Ned Cochrane has seen it all in his 30-plus years at the Mauldin, S.C.-based manufacturer. He said the industry’s resurgence is real and sustainable thanks to a confluence of factors and circumstances.
Cochrane说：“为客户提供服务是我们所做的最重要的事情，我们（在国内）比世界上任何一个国家都做得更好。”“今天的客户想要一些特殊或独特的东西；他们想与下一个家伙不同。他们想要一致的质量，并且他们知道为了获得这一点，他们必须在国内开展业务。”
带纺织品回家
更高的劳动率、运输有限公司sts and energy tabs in Asia, coupled with a substantial appreciation in the value of the yuan, have helped spur a blended marketplace strategy with a strong focus on American-made textiles. The industry generated $56.7 billion in shipments in 2015 — a five-year increase of 13.4 percent — decades after many thought U.S. textiles were dead.
美国制造的回来了，它很可能会留下来
从沃尔玛到Abercrombie＆Fitch的零售商正在做出回应，为美国制造的物品创建了部分，并在国内为商品采购。实际上，沃尔玛（Wal-Mart）开创了全球采购以找到价格最低的客户商品，他表示，在未来十年中，它将与美国供应商的支出增加500亿美元，并通过这样做来节省资金。需要快速转变，高质量的低风险商品的企业找到了一个新的采购地点，就在过去。
“我们认为，美国的消费者将越来越多地将他们的支持定位在正在美国投资的品牌和公司之后，”高质量品牌家庭服装的主要供应商Gildan的公共与公司事务高级副总裁Peter Iliopoulos说。“过去三年来，我们在美国投资了3.5亿美元。吉尔丹（Gildan）利用了美国棉花的高质量和卓越价值，并以熟练的劳动力，低能源成本和稳定的投资气氛相称。”
建造现代工厂
当今美国纺织业的优势包括新的制造设施，里面装满了最先进的设备和熟练的劳动力，可以用更少的工作来做得更多。在2002年至2012年之间，美国纺织厂的生产率提高了34％，在生产率上所有工业领域中最高。舞者和午餐桶的日子已经一去不复返了。当今的美国工厂并不是叮当灰尘的地方，在这里，Lappers每天将生棉喂入纸板的锋利金属牙齿中八个小时。低工资，低技术的工作已经消失，全面的计算机技能和专门的培训正在进行中 - 美国经济生态系统的新成员依赖于掌握这些机器的定制，尖端技术和工人。
“我们毫所有权已投资逾100美元on back into the company to modernize facilities and increase productivity,” said Cochrane. “We went out and got the best equipment money could buy, so we needed a more skilled workforce to handle it. As a result, our productivity is through the roof.”
“We have invested significantly in new equipment, technology and process improvements over the last 10 years,” said Iliopoulos. “Many of the innovative solutions now in our facilities were deployed through collaboration between our employees and our suppliers. We do not believe we could have achieved this level of success without that connection between our people and technology.”
Creating Jobs And Growing The Bottom Line
Increased demand and investments in technology have helped American textile companies achieve phenomenal growth, both in domestic job creation and the bottom line.
The increased demand for quality, domestically sourced textiles from state-of-the-art U.S. facilities has stemmed the tide of job losses that characterized the industry during the Great Recession. Today, the overall textile sector — from textile fibers to apparel — employs more than 500,000 workers.
The rise of the machines also has correlated to a rise in pay for skilled textile workers. In 2014, the average textile wage was $37,900 compared to $28,216 in 2002. In fact, textile workers earn 143 percent more than apparel store workers while also receiving health care and pension benefits.
“The introduction of more sophisticated technology within each process, with complicated circuitry and software driving almost all textile equipment, has elevated textile jobs,” Iliopoulos said. “We believe the shift toward sustainability in textiles has also created job opportunities, and the factors driving these changes will likely continue into the future.”
Innovating For The Future
“When things get tough, the easy thing to do is quit,” said ITG’s Burlington Group President Jeff Peck. “And once you quit, you’ve sealed your fate. So even when we were down, we never stopped development, and we never stopped innovating. Our customers today want products that do more and that have a story to tell, so they can create differentiation in the marketplace.”
Thinking differently has paid off for ITG. In 2007, just six years after filing for bankruptcy, ITG’s Burlington Group launched Burlington Labs, a state of the art “petri-dish” where ideas become reality.
佩克说：“我们已经成为发明家和新兴技术的避雷针，因为我们可以采用原始想法并以闪电般的速度将其商业化。”“客户看到了，问，您能做到吗？由于伯灵顿实验室，我们可以说是的。”
Innovation in the industry has led to two new growth categories — nonwovens and technical textiles. Nonwovens are fiber-based products made of fabric that is compressed, heated or tangled, like felt. Envelopes, facial wipes, mops and medical scrubs are nonwovens. In the last decade, North Carolina has gained 1,945 jobs in the nonwoven products business.
技术纺织品是出于非审美目的而制造的，其中功能是主要标准。产品包括用于消防员，焊工和宇航员的防护服；医疗应用，例如植入物；以及包括路堤增援的土工布。技术纺织品已成为该行业最热门的增长类别之一，从2007年到2014年，出口增长了34.9％。
“创新是我们的救赎，”科克伦说。“当时代艰难时，我们被迫创新寻找可以帮助我们出售的新产品，例如技术纺织品。现在，创新是我们DNA的一部分。这是我们。毕竟，您所做的就是使您成为什么。”
美国纺织工业的发展趋势和界限，但在美国制造商制造远未完成。这些公司被认为是研究和开发领域的世界领导者，并每天都开发新产品，从抗质感防弹衣和导电纤维到适应气候变化和智能纺织品的织物，这些织物使用织物以除阳光以外什么都不是纯净水。
“Today’s end-users don’t just wear textiles for comfort, they rely on them,” Peck said. “They need textiles for their safety, their health and their wellness. What we do now is more important than it’s ever been.”
编者注：本文出现在188BET金博宝下载courtesy of the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) as part of the “American Textiles: We Make Amazing™”campaign. NCTO is a trade association representing U.S. textile manufacturing. Please visit ncto.org to learn more about NCTO, the industry and the campaign.
2016年9月/10月
