TW特别报告
dr。James A. Hayward在生物技术，制药，生命科学和消费产品行业方面拥有20多年的经验，目前是总部位于纽约州Stony Brook的总裁兼首席执行官Applied DNA Sciences，这是基于DNA的供应链提供商，抗爆炸，身份验证，基因分型和防盗技术。海沃德（Hayward）参与了全球努力，以帮助确保产品的质量和真实性，并保护全球供应链免受标签，伪造和转移的误解。他获得了博士学位来自纽约州立大学斯托尼溪大学的分子生物学博士学位。
Textile World:You have unique methods to determine species and the origin of cotton as well as other textiles—fiberTyping® and SigNature® T DNA. Can you explain the difference?
Hayward: Recently, one of the world’s largest cotton manufacturers, located in India, has been accused by a U.S. retailer of mislabeling products as 100-percent Egyptian Cotton.
随后,许多棉花零售商unched formal audits of their products obtained from the same manufacturer, which now admits “a failure” about “the provenance of the fibre (sic).” Applied DNA Sciences had previously warned that brands and consumers seriously question Egyptian textile claims. In prior surveys, Applied DNA Sciences examined the genetic content of retail products labeled 100-percent Egyptian or 100-percent Pima cotton using fiberTyping — a patented DNA test to determine if a product contains Gossypium barbadense DNA — extra long staple (ELS) cotton — Gossypium hirsutum DNA — Upland cotton — or a blend of both. It is a powerful tool to help the cotton industry ensure that products that are labeled as 100-percent ELS or 100-percent Pima are compliant with label claims. FiberTyping can help diagnose if a product is blended or contains upland cotton, when it should be 100-percent Pima, but it cannot tell you exactly where it came from — such as that it was grown in the United States, for example — and by the time you test a finished product and find out it’s not pure, it’s too late to do anything about it. So the only workable solution is to tag the product itself at the source.
核心技术被标记为纺织品的签名t，使用了独特的分子标签，该标签在杜松子酒中标记为棉纤维，随后在供应链的每个步骤中检查了棉花，将其制成纱线，织物和成品。除签名t外，所有棉花都均纤维纤维，在杜松之前，通过物种量化了棉纤维中的天然DNA，以确保存在原始的棉质物种。它可以在供应链中的任何地方进行身份验证，从而可以从土地到品牌进行可追溯性。
可以向每个客户（批次甚至批量）提供独特的，无法复制的签名。它旨在对标记的纺织品的质量或性能没有影响，并轻松地与现有的制造过程集成。
TW：您如何有效防止在纺织品的供应链中混合混合？这个问题有多普遍？
Hayward：我们在家庭纺织品和服装中进行了两次研究。研究表明，声称为100％PIMA的物品中有80％以上不是。
这个问题是普遍的，行业开始解决这个问题。我认为，防止在纺织行业中贴错标签的最有效方法是能够在供应链沿岸的任何时刻跟踪和追踪特定类型的材料。就PIMA棉花而言，使用法医身份标签在确保标记为100％PIMA的产品方面非常有效。
As shown in Figure 1, once SigNature T DNA tagging was implemented — including the strict storage and labeling protocols, along with inspections and frequent DNA testing — the level of DNA compliance rose quickly to 100 percent. Data were obtained by APDN from commercial samples.
What the tag does is nothing short of amazing. It provides a means for the consumer to know where their “stuff” comes from with proof, and it turns out the grower can also know who is buying their product. In addition, tagging gives the opportunity for everyone in the supply chain to receive a fair return for producing a quality product. The certainty that is provided to the supply chain translates to a more transparent and trusted supply chain.
TW：使用DNA具有什么优势？
Hayward: Our botanical-based SigNature DNA platform is proven at the highest levels because of our programs with government, law enforcement agencies as well as commercial partners in textiles, microelectronics, pharmaceuticals, to name a few partners. We have patented and proprietary systems to create an infinite quantity of unique DNA tags that cannot be copied. Some might claim they have ways to mark items; however, they are often not unique, can easily be replicated and are generally not secure.
签名DNA的强度具有稳定和兼容的能力。对于我们预防犯罪的申请，被盗现金标记了不可磨灭的DNA-INK，我们可以提供法医证据，将犯罪与刑事权利联系起来，直到现金被盗的日期，时间和地点。对于纺织品，我们已经将DNA承担了不同的温度，pH值，表面，并能够验证我们的签名t DNA标签，从原纤维到染色的纱线和织物以及成品。
TW：在与您的一些客户合作时，就其产品质量而言，您发现了什么样的结论？您测试过的许多产品是否符合其标签主张？
Hayward: When it comes to quality, the answer is this: if you have great raw materials or ingredients to start with, by tagging it at the source, you are protected with the knowledge that everything is now traceable to the original material.
不幸的是，许多供应链和采购系统都过于依赖纸条小径以证明起源。过去，产品质量和性能的一致性是采购的主要目标，但是如今，解决可追溯性和起源证明的解决方案对于确保供应链中的质量，真实性和可持续性至关重要。一个很好的例子是我们与Techmer PM（聚合物添加剂和大师批次着色剂制造商）的合作伙伴关系。运动型行业的顶级设计师和品牌对其产品受到信任和依赖。与Techmer合作，我们能够成功地签名T标签尼龙大师批量树脂，并在将样品挤出并制成成品时对样品进行身份验证。
TW: Over the past year, you have seen a rapid increase in your textile/apparel sector, with shipments of millions of pounds of cotton. What’s next for the company?
Hayward: The certainty that our forensic solutions offer to supply chains extends beyond cotton to wool, cashmere, synthetics and for consumer goods as well as industrial applications. We also have seen an uptick in interest to protect specialty fabric coatings that have specific performance claims. Our clients are interested in product differentiation through innovation and this is where our technological expertise in working with different chemistries and substrates is most sought after. As we often say, certainty is only a molecule away.
2016年11月/12月
