TW特别报告
w阿辛顿是一个忙碌的地方。每天，国会和数十个联邦实体都在制定，实施和执行影响美国纺织工作和贸易的无数事项。尽管有些问题广泛且易于理解，但其他问题是技术性高，即使不是奥术也是如此。
The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) is structured into four governing councils — Fiber, Yarn, Fabric & Home Furnishings, and Industry Support — to help the U.S. textile supply chain form a consensus and speak with one voice on policy matters affecting the sector.
当美国颁布新法律或联邦机构进行行政规则的更改时，某些问题经常复发，或者是如此复杂，以至于NCTO已经成立了特殊常设委员会来补充其四场比赛的结构。这些委员会激发了充满活力的专业知识和思想交流，使成员公司能够更好地理解和影响影响从棉花消费到政府采购和易燃性标准再到海关规则的一切政策。借助供应链所有部门的技术投入，NCTO的委员会可以比其理事会更严格地审查政策。通过利用专业知识并促进了更强大的政策审议，NCTO委员会的系统帮助NCTO的四个理事会做出了更明智的决定，同时是美国纺织工业的统一力量。有关NCTO的四个常设委员会如何使行业和消费者受益的更多信息，请查看以下资料。
政府纺织委员会：鼓励山姆大叔购买“美国制造”
美国政府是美国纺织品和服装供应链的最大客户。仅国防部（DOD）即可购买8,000多个不同的纺织品，以供美国军方和其他盟军组织使用，当将单个尺寸考虑到项目组合中时，该数字将增加到31,000多个订单项目。包括国防部购买，美国政府通常每年在纺织品和服装上花费超过20亿美元。
NCTO’s Government Textiles Committee, chaired by Nick Pence, director of Materials and Trims for Baltimore, Md.-based Under Armour, connects member companies from all points in the U.S. textile supply chain. Together, these companies oversee issues related to all facets of government procurement, including preservation and expansion of the Berry Amendment, contracting matters, and liaison with other organizations and government contracting agencies.
彭斯说：“作为一名美国陆军游骑兵，我知道何时采取行动设备，生命可能会受到威胁。”“美国制造的军用纺织品和服装是世界一流的。知道这使战士增加了进入任务的信心。
… America’s security depends on our military having guaranteed access to high-quality, innovative textile materials, apparel, and personal equipment made at home.”
根据《浆果修正案》（10 USC 2533a）的法律，美国军方购买的大多数纺织品和衣服都必须包含100％的美国制造的纤维，纱线和面料。此外，必须在美国剪下和组装这些纺织品和服装。
近年来，在考虑年度国防授权法（NDAA）期间已尝试削弱某些产品的采购要求（包括纺织品，服装和鞋类）。NCTO强烈反对破坏浆果和其他“购买美国”偏好法的完整性的努力。
Besides supporting domestic preferences, NCTO’s Government Textiles Committee works closely with the Defense Logistics Agency, the U.S. Army Natick Soldier Systems Center, Program Executive Office (PEO) Soldier and other entities to proactively anticipate the services’ future textile and clothing needs and develop the next generation of military textiles.
彭斯说：“尽管如此，满足这些需求仍需要精心计划。”“例如，如果这些服务说他们明年需要200,000次抗弹道的装甲板，那么有人必须生产纤维和/或纱，编织织物，染料并完成织物，最后将其切成薄片，然后将其切成薄片可以运往部队。”
“ NCTO希望确保上游供应商今天制造军队下游顾客明天需要的东西；如果关键输入缺货，则可以将生产推迟数周。”彭斯说。
NCTO还与国防部在组织美国先进功能织物（AFFOA）方面进行了密切协调。马萨诸塞州理工学院管理的这个剑桥，马萨诸塞州，创新中心的任务是开发下一代纺织纤维，这些纺织纤维可以收获能源，促进数据传输等等。
内饰面料委员会：展示您的风格，同时确保您的安全
Lounging in your favorite recliner? Sporting a vibrant hue on your living room chairs? Curling up with a book on your favorite sofa? Upholstery fabrics not only showcase living spaces, they also must withstand the rigors of everyday use. In addition to abrasion resistance and repelling water and stains, upholstery fabrics also are made with fire safety in mind to protect their users.
NCTO的室内装饰面料委员会由北卡罗来纳州瓦尔德斯市瓦尔德·织布斯有限责任公司主席兼首席执行官迈克尔·谢尔顿（Michael Shelton）主持，负责负责联邦和州一级的所有软垫家具易燃问题。它还解决了绩效标准，化学法规，知识产权以及影响内饰织物行业部门的其他事项。
“The Upholstery Fabrics Committee has had a full plate in recent years,” Shelton said. “Tracking flammability standards and ensuring that they are reasonable, effective, realistic and affordable is a large part of the work of our committee.”
该委员会还致力于确保面料达到消费者的期望，包括力量和色彩效果，以及防止咖啡，番茄酱和芥末等意外溢出物的保护。使用排除污垢，水和油性物质的饰面来实现溢出保护，最新一代性能面料饰面是符合旨在保护健康和环境的监管标准的许多技术进步的结果。
该委员会还向美国贸易代表提出了公众评论，涉及进口的内饰面料，尤其是来自中国的某些产品，这些面料违反了版权法和侵犯美国知识产权保护。
“What sets American upholstery manufacturers apart is our proven track record of continually producing new fabrics with the most fashionable colors and designs anywhere in the world,” Shelton said. “But if overseas competitors can illegally knock off the product, U.S. manufacturers are denied the rewards of their unique styling and design, research and development, disincentivizing domestic investment. That’s why the Upholstery Fabrics Committee has been fighting so hard to make sure U.S. Customs and American courts rigorously enforce intellectual property rights.”
Cotton Committee: Influencing Policy From Farm To Fabric
The most commonly used natural fiber in textiles is cotton, a highly preferred fiber choice for jeans, shirts, bedding and other products because it is soft, absorbent, breathable and does not retain odors.
根据美国国家棉花委员会a (NCC), U.S. farmers grew 20.9 million bales of cotton in 2017. Net domestic consumption of the fiber totaled an estimated 17.7 million bales, including 3.2 million bales by domestic yarn spinners.
“NCTO’s Cotton Committee brings together cooperatives, brokers, shippers, yarn spinners, and fabric knitters and weavers to oversee all policy matters pertaining to the cotton textile supply chain,” said Cotton Committee chairman Anderson D. Warlick, chairman and CEO of Gastonia, N.C.-based Parkdale.
这些问题包括农场法案，纤维质量，污染，制造，贸易协定以及与美国农业部和棉花组织（如NCC和美国棉花托运人协会）的关系。沃利克说：“农场法案尤其重要。”
Normally passed by Congress every five years, the Farm Bill sets policy impacting the prices of all farm commodities. Whenever the bill comes up for reauthorization, NCTO’s Cotton Committee teams with NCC to press for common sense provisions to ensure there is consistent availability and steady consumption of U.S. cotton, while balancing the interests of cotton manufacturers.
“Since government-influenced commodity prices affect the competitiveness of cotton-consuming mills, it is imperative that the Farm Bill benefits both farmers and the domestic textile supply chain,” Warlick emphasized as he explained the importance of maintaining productive working relationships with policymakers in Washington, D.C. on cotton issues.
“When you combine world-class farmers, a good Farm Bill, efficient looms, and cheap, reliable utilities, U.S. cotton yarn spinners can compete with anyone in the world and that’s why NCTO’s Cotton Committee works hard to make sure U.S. policy reflects that position.”
Regulatory & Standards Committee: Helping Textile Companies Run Safely & Smoothly
Businesses must comply with a host of regulations and standards on everything from health and safety to customs reporting and recordkeeping.
NCTO的监管和标准委员会由位于北卡罗来纳州华盛顿州华盛顿州的国家纺纱公司（National Spinning Co. Inc.）的首席执行官吉姆·布特尔博（Jim Booterbaugh）主持，旨在确保美国纺织公司可以安全，平稳地运营其运营。
Booterbaugh说：“ NCTO成员认识到法规的必要性，但法规必须明确，可量化，现实和负担得起。”
他补充说：“精心制作的工作场所或环境监管制度可以使整个工业部门离岸。”
随着加利福尼亚州的领先优势，许多州采用或正在考虑比联邦政府更严格地采用化学法规。
Booterbaugh说：“当您拥有全国分销产品时，多种标准会造成严重破坏。”
“The need for safety is unquestioned,” Booterbaugh continued. “The Regulatory & Standards Committee works on behalf of NCTO members to make sure regulations are written in a common sense way that makes them readily understandable and realistic to comply with.”
Because most regulatory matters are complex, the Regulatory and Standards Committee works with other trade associations to address issues collectively.
“The best way to get a regulation that benefits all Americans is to work across industry lines,” Booterbaugh said. “One day you’ll be working with the chemical industry and the next with a consumer advocacy group.”
NCTO试图与他人进行协调的其他领域包括职业安全和健康事务，（OSHA）和运动货运法规，以鼓励产品安全合理地运输产品。
最后，NCTO还与ASTM International和美国纺织化学家和调色师协会（AATCC）紧密联系，以建立用于纺织品磨损，拉伸和撕裂强度以及诸如水驱除效果等湿法的纺织方法的测试方法，以及其他性能属性。
Booterbaugh说：“实际上，确保产品在绘图板上设计的唯一方法是对其进行测试。”“虽然测试可能很昂贵且耗时，但它可以确保纺织公司能够以严格的科学数据获得信心向消费者推销绩效收益。”
编者注：本文出现在纺织世界中，由国家纺织组织（NCTO）提供，作为“美国纺织品188BET金博宝下载：我们制作惊人™”运动的一部分。NCTO是代表美国纺织制造业的贸易协会。请访问ncto.org，以了解有关NCTO，行业和活动的更多信息。
September/October 2019
