莱克特拉（Lectra）编写的最新报告使用了retriviews自动基准测试解决方案，以检查不断变化的快速时尚行业的成功策略。
TWSpecial Report
In a changing fashion industry, consumer expectations and priorities are shifting, and new opportunities are emerging, driving leading brands to innovate. Factors such as the growing prominence of digital channels, supply chain disruptions and increased social and environmental mindfulness, are shaping the industry’s future. Taking this into consideration, how are leading brands keeping up with the evolving industry and staying ahead of the competition? Two giants, ZARA and H&M continuously lead apparel retail and have successfully bounced back following the global pandemic.
Zara的母公司company Inditex recorded net sales of 11.9 billion euros ($13.2 billion), nearly 8.5 billion euros ($9.4 billion) of which originated from Zara alone, in the first half of 2021. The Spain-based company’s most recent collections even showcased a sales increase 9-percent higher than its 2019 pre-pandemic levels during the same period.
H&M Group, parent company of H&M also moved towards a return to pre-pandemic levels in 2021, with a fourth quarter sales increase of 8 percent in comparison to the same period during the previous year, standing at a sales value of over 5.5 billion euros ($6.1 billion).
Considering both brands’ continued success within an industry where “fast fashion” is widely criticized and where consumers are increasingly concerned about the sustainable aspect of their purchases, how have ZARA and H&M adapted their strategies?
Investing In Quality
ZARA has differentiated its strategy in the past year and has ventured into the introduction of higher end, premium collections such as its Studio Collection or the launch of “ZARA Origins,” its premium concept collection. Partnerships have also been a part of the brand’s strategy this year with its popular limited-edition collaborations with Dutch collective Kassl Editions and South Korea-based streetwear brand ADER Error.
As consumers are gravitating towards investing in timeless and versatile pieces, the Spanish brand increased the share of premium collections and pieces in its assortment by 17 percent throughout 2021, far more than H&M, whose existing premium collection grew by only 2 percent throughout the past year. Placing an emphasis on premium pieces this year, ZARA is leading the growth in higher quality apparel.
走向优质织物
Looking at the fabrics that are most prominent in each brand’s assortment, there is an evident similarity between the two, both ZARA and H&M placing the largest emphasis on cotton and polyester, including recycled versions of both fabrics, each making up between 20 percent and 30 percent of the brands’ fabric mix.
但是，由于两个品牌增强了他们的高质量收藏，因此优质面料在两个品牌的各种产品中也都增强了动力，即羊绒，羊毛和皮革。尽管H＆M在其分类中拥有较高的产品，但Zara却落后了，并且正在大大增加对高级织物的投资，从而巩固了其向更高级定位的转变。
可持续性
H&M has kept its focus towards increased sustainability and has developed new initiatives such as its “Innovation Stories” with innovative textiles and design, the Looop recycling system as well as its Circular Design Tool. In 2021, the giant’s sustainable conscious collection made up 21% of its total assortment, whilst ZARA’s Join Life collection represented 16 percent of its total collection. Conveying ambitious goals, the brands are moving towards increased circularity and sustainable innovation, with H&M taking the lead.
However, will this be sufficient to stay ahead of competitors or will the brands need to make more significant changes to put behind the negative connotation of being deemed a “fast fashion” brand?
高级定价进化
大众市场巨头既增加了其保费量的规模，又增加了这些相同的收藏品变得更加昂贵。使用更高质量的面料以及与高端品牌的合作显然提高了价格，Zara的高级产品比上一年高出19％。H＆M的高级收集增长速度较慢，在过去的一年中，其价格仅上涨了3.2％。扎拉（Zara）在过去一年中迅速扩大了其优质作品和合作的收藏，但该细分市场的价格发生了重大变化。
How Much More Expensive Is Premium?
与非高级收藏相比，优质质量在哪里？它是否昂贵？H＆M显示了其溢价收藏的平均价格，其价格是其常规收款价格的三倍以上。扎拉（Zara）的高级藏品的平均价格低于H＆M，比常规收藏品高83％，其平均价格比H＆M的常规藏品高。
With regards to maximum prices, ZARA holds a higher price point for both its regular and premium collections than H&M. Unlike H&M, whose maximum prices do not differ between premium and regular collections, ZARA has a higher maximum price for its premium collection. Within its regular collection, ZARA continuously keeps its prices higher than its Swedish competitor.
供应链对价格的影响
考虑到大流行驱动的供应链中断已经开始占据时装行业，在过去的几个月中，Zara和H＆M的价格大大提高。但是，这两个品牌具有截然不同的业务模型。Zara将消费者的需求与少量的生产数量相匹配，因此绕过了沉重的供应链斗争，并允许品牌保持在每种新兴趋势的风口浪尖。H＆M在亚洲采购了大部分产品，面临供应链中断和延误，并在过去五个月内表示平均价格总体上涨了13％。
In ZARA’s case, the increase in its average price was a strong 23 percent, as the brand significantly increased its share of premium fabrics — a major contribution to its price increase, further driven up by the raw material price increase for textiles such as cotton, wool, and recycled fabrics.
数字未来
在过去的一年中，对数字领域有一个强烈的枢纽，在时装行业的元角度突出。Zara和H＆M等关键品牌正在通过其数字收藏和协作进入Metaverse。Zara通过韩国品牌Ader错误推出了数字收藏，H＆M在流行的游戏《动物交叉》中推出了自己以可持续性为中心的数字收藏。
Considering the current change in consumer behavior, pandemic-induced logistic issues and the increased need for sustainability, market leaders ZARA and H&M are staying ahead of the curve and adapting their strategies, allowing them to outpace competitors. Where ZARA has shifted focus towards a more premium positioning reaching a wider consumer base, H&M has upped the ante on its sustainable initiatives.
Understanding what lies behind the apparel giants’ strategies allows brands to stay on top of the industry. Thanks to Retviews data, fashion retailers can monitor competitors’ assortment, pricing and discount strategies in real time and take the lead in the changing fashion industry.
编者注：retviews是一种自动基准解决方案，可让时尚品牌和零售商实时监视竞争对手的分类，价格和折扣数据。它可以帮助他们在正确的时间和价格上使用正确的产品来查明完美的零售策略，从而节省竞争分析的时间，并根据准确，可操作的数据做出决策。
2022年3月/4月
